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Exploring the Essence of Seaside Charm: A Journey Through Weston-super-Mare

As the summer unfolds, we embark on a quest to unravel the heartbeat of our beloved traditional coastal towns, delving into the ongoing endeavors to rejuvenate them and pondering their enduring allure. In this installment, Paul Bloomfield delves into the vibrant tapestry of Weston-super-Mare.

Was it the dazzling neon lights flickering like fireflies, or perhaps the cacophony of sounds colliding in a symphony of chaos, mingling with the nostalgic tunes of the Noughties? Maybe it was the whimsical candy floss, reminiscent of unicorn dreams, that ignited an unexpected fervor within me. Whatever the catalyst, I found myself ensnared in the mesmerizing allure of the coin-pusher machines, fervently hoping for a cascade of copper to rain down upon me. Prior to my visit to Weston-super-Mare, I had been oblivious to the existence of such relics of amusement – and truth be told, I had nearly forgotten the existence of 2p coins altogether.

In the heart of this quintessential Somerset resort lies the Grand Pier, a symbol of resilience amidst the ebb and flow of time. Though it traces its origins back to 1904, the pier has weathered the flames of destruction not once, but twice, emerging each time with renewed vigor. Today, it stands as a testament to Weston's spirit of reinvention, juxtaposing classic attractions like the ghost train and donut factory with modern marvels such as all-electric go-karts and educational exhibits on local history and biodiversity.

Weston-super-Mare is a dichotomy of old and new, where traditional seaside pleasures coexist harmoniously with contemporary delights. From quaint fish and chip shops to avant-garde craft brewpubs, the town offers a kaleidoscope of experiences to suit every palate. The town's evolution from a humble fishing village to a bustling tourist destination, and subsequent decline followed by a resurgence, is chronicled meticulously in its excellent museum.

Sipping on a frothy oat milk latte while admiring the panoramic vista of golden sands stretching for miles from the terrace of Revo Kitchen – a former aquarium turned pier – one can't help but be swept away by the allure of "Bristol-on-Sea". Despite its lower property prices compared to its metropolitan neighbor, Weston-super-Mare is experiencing a renaissance, attracting a wave of urbanites seeking refuge from the hustle and bustle of city life. The emergence of artisanal bakeries, alternative entertainment venues, and eclectic neighborhoods like Grove Village underscores the town's newfound vibrancy.

Yet, amidst the burgeoning arts scene and trendy eateries, traces of Weston's nostalgic charm still linger in the form of tattoo parlors, bustling bars, and shops adorned with brightly colored buckets and spades. It is this juxtaposition of old and new, tradition and innovation, that lends Weston-super-Mare its unique allure – an ever-evolving tapestry woven with threads of history, resilience, and unbridled optimism for the future.

In the Ongoing Evolution of Weston-super-Mare: From Nostalgia to Revival

Not long ago, there was a comical attempt to rebrand our town as ‘more Waitrose and less Aldi,’ one local scoffed. "But Weston's essence isn't about attracting those who indulge in glamping escapades in Cornwall. It's about welcoming visitors from Birmingham and Wales seeking simple pleasures like donkey rides and beachside ice lollies — and that's perfectly alright.

Whispers of Weston mirroring the resurgence of Margate, another seaside town once in the doldrums but now revitalized through art, have been circulating. Ever since Banksy introduced his provocative Dismaland "bemusement park" in 2015, the town has become a canvas for street artists, with new murals added annually during Upfest. Follow the Weston Wallz trail to marvel at over a dozen striking artworks.

In tandem with various regeneration projects, substantial investments, including a recent £20 million injection from government Levelling Up funds, have breathed new life into the facades along Walliscote Road. The result? A burgeoning community of independent retailers, from a captivating art gallery to a tantalizing Thai bistro and a delectable bakery. Across the street stands the Plaza cinema, a 1935 Art Deco masterpiece once an Odeon, now undergoing a refurbishment while retaining its original Compton pipe organ.

Accommodations are undergoing a metamorphosis as well. The once-tired Commodore on Sand Bay has been reborn as the chic South Sands Hotel, exuding a vibe reminiscent of Cornwall. Despite such transformations, Weston finds itself ranked as Britain's third-worst seaside town in The Telegraph's gentrification index. A stroll down Regent Street, lined with amusement arcades and sports bars, paints a vivid picture of why.

At 9:30 am, I observed a solitary individual feverishly feeding coins into nearby fruit machines amidst a cacophony of ear-splitting beeps. He wouldn't remain alone for long. While the Art Deco lido, once Europe's largest open-air pool, was once favored by Haile Selassie during his 1930s exile, it now sits as a gravel lot sporadically hosting events. However, plans are in motion to transform it into an 8,000-capacity venue, slated to commence this summer.

In stark contrast lies Birnbeck Pier, the northernmost of three iconic sea jetties, opened in 1867. Despite its current state of dilapidation, hope is rekindled with Levelling Up investment, aiming to restore this Grade II-listed gem to its former glory, with plans for public access slated for next year.

Amidst the eclectic array of tattoos and takeaways, the high street finds itself sandwiched between two Greggs outlets. The bustling Fridge of Free Stuff foodbank, with its ample provisions and a steady stream of visitors, serves as a poignant reminder of the challenges facing Weston. Similarly, the presence of the towering Knife Angel in the Italian Gardens, fashioned from 100,000 blades seized by police or donated during amnesties nationwide, serves as a sobering testament to the ongoing struggle against violence and social issues.

Discovering the Vibrancy of Weston-super-Mare: Where Variety and Vitality Meet

To be fair, the sight of vacant units is a rarity here in Weston. And it's the town's diverse tapestry that adds that extra kick to life. As Shakespeare, immortalized on plaques above the Grade II-listed WHSmith in the high street, once penned: “Come and take choice of all my library, and so beguile thy sorrow.” Or, as the bold strokes of street art remind us: “Dream Big! Believe! Keep Going!”

Dive in. Weston has long been ahead of the curve when it comes to wellness. Back in the 1830s, Dr. Edward Long Fox was already championing the health benefits of sea bathing here. Fast forward to today, and the enclosed Marine Lake offers a pristine, cost-free, and – as I can attest, even on a cloudy May morning – inviting locale for a refreshing sunset swim. Afterwards, unwind at one of the craft beer bars in nearby Grove Village. Among them, the Fat Head Brewery & Taproom stands out – its Lemon Head pale ale is a delightful, wallet-friendly indulgence – as does the cozy Black Cat Micropub. Conclude the day with a friendly game at The Stable Games Room or sway to the rhythms of a global music performance at the bandstand in Grove Park.

At first glance, Weston may seem like a place where the daily serving of fruits and veggies consists of ice cream, chips, candy floss, and a side of doner kebab. So, it might come as a surprise to stumble upon a menu boasting gochujang cauliflower and vegan West African peanut stew. Yet, Loves Cafe has been tantalizing taste buds with its meat-free delights for well over a decade. Come for the worldly flavors, stay for the live music. Feeling less adventurous? Grab a generously portioned serving of classic chip shop chips from the traditional Winstons Fish Bar on the seafront, and savor them with the sand between your toes.

As more than one local has hinted to me, somewhat discreetly: “Things can get lively in the town center after dark.” Head directly inland from the Grand Pier, and you'll find yourself in the kebab-and-cheap-pints territory along Alexandra Parade and beyond, where Saturday night's excitement might spill into the streets – best observed from a safe distance on a summer evening. And whatever you do, resist the urge to dash across the sands and into the waves when the tide is coming in. Weston is renowned for having the world's second-highest tidal range, often nearing a staggering 15 meters; many an eager visitor has found themselves surprised by the rushing waves or treacherous mud. Heed the warning signs.

Voices of Weston-super-Mare: A Tapestry of Perspectives

Before I arrived, my father-in-law quipped: ‘You’re not heading to Weston-super-Mud, are you? I wouldn’t set foot there even if rent were free!’" reminisces Mag, a steadfast resident of three decades. "Yet, there's an undeniable sense of civic pride here. The community works tirelessly to maintain the cleanliness of our beaches and gardens. Even the bikers take it upon themselves to tidy up after their gatherings.

There's a vibrant community committed to enhancing Weston," echoes Kelli Rapson, proud owner of Sustenance bakery. "Historically, wealth has often skirted the town's periphery, but now, there's a renewed focus on revitalizing the heart of Weston. Sure, it's quintessentially Weston – with its idlers – but they're harmless. And let's not forget those breathtaking sunsets!

I relish the crisp sea air – it always guarantees a restful night's sleep," beams Veronica Sawyer, savoring a day trip from Gloucester. "It's unpretentious and affordable – just the way I like it. I wouldn't book a week-long stay, but for a day trip, which set us back £20, it's unbeatable value. What else can you get for £20 these days?

They spared no expense in paving the promenade, and it's commendably done," remarks Wendy, a seasoned visitor from the Midlands with three decades of Weston memories. "Yet, the removal of the charming string of lights along the promenade, which epitomized seaside charm, was a misstep. The replacements simply don't measure up.

Weston-super-Mare is a mere half-hour jaunt from Bristol, flanked by verdant hills to the north and south. Direct trains from London Paddington whisk passengers here in just over two hours. The seafront beckons a mere 10-minute stroll westward from the station.

In conclusion, Weston-super-Mare emerges as a town woven with threads of community pride, resilience, and a steadfast commitment to progress. Despite differing opinions on its quirks and changes, there's an undeniable affection for its unassuming charm and affordability. From the diligent efforts to maintain cleanliness to the aspirations for revitalization, Weston embodies a spirit of collective endeavor. As visitors bask in the sea air, locals nurture the town's identity, ensuring it remains a cherished destination for both fleeting day trips and enduring stays. Weston-super-Mare, with its idyllic sunsets, vibrant community, and timeless allure, continues to beckon travelers and residents alike to its welcoming shores.